When I first started surfing I thought it was going to be easy, just get up and start riding, right? Well the first thing is paddling out this takes strength because sometimes there is currents. You also need to get pass the waves, this an be tricky because sometimes the waves are big. The next thing is getting up on the wave this is especially hard when the waves are big because you can easily fall off.
Paddling seems the easiest right? Well when there is currents sometimes it takes 30 minutes just to get out. And then when you catch a wave you have to paddle out again. It also hurts your neck because you constantly have to look up. Your arms also get really worn out.
Getting past the waves plays a big part in surfing. It all depends on the type of wave it is, if it is a wave that breaks on sand its typically going to be more powerful, and if it is a wave breaks on the reef its typically going to be less powerful. It also depends if there is a swell or not, if there is its going to be so much harder because depending on the swell you could easily drown.
Now for the most important part, standing up! If you watch surfing videos they make it seem really easy. But in reality there is so much more, first you need to know when to stand up because if your too early your not going to catch the wave and if your too late you could get pounded. You can also get sucked over the wave which could make you get held under the water for long periods of time. Also when you catch the wave you could easily hit someone.
In conclusion surfing was one of the things that looked easy in the beginning but it turned out to be really hard. The three main things that makes surfing hard is paddling out to the waves themselves. Trying to get over the waves so you can actually catch the waves. Then actually catching a wave without falling down.
My name is Erik I am currently in 6th grade. In my free time I like getting videos of waves, and putting them together to make edits. I also like taking pictures of waves.